One Mountain Thousand Summits: The Untold Story Tragedy and True Heroism on K2 [Hardcover]
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community. Heavy systems with large antennae were designed to be installed on ships, and later in the 1980s and early 1990s, smaller briefcase-size units became available. They were theoretically portable, but not practical. The purchase price ranged between five thousand and ten thousand dollars, and it cost as much as ten dollars per minute to make a call. The early units weighed twenty-five pounds, and had a bit transfer rate of only 2.4 kilobytes per second. Laptop computers, meanwhile, were
Slovenian alpinist Tomaz Humar was stranded by stormy conditions at sixty-three hundred meters on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat. Initially, the Pakistani army refused to initiate a helicopter rescue above six thousand meters; his “official” altitude was thus amended to fifty-nine hundred meters so that the mission would proceed. Humar was successfully short-hauled from the mountain, but the Pakistani pilots were forced to push their machine to the absolute limit. With an unknown number of
the following quote, also attributed to von Stedingk: “This avalanche caused a further two deaths and at least eight people are completely cut off now. How they will come down now nobody knows.” Those informed readers who had been following the Norit blog might have been able to deduce that Sträng’s report referred to the aborted rescue of Dren Mandic—but the majority of readers perceived only a chaotic, desperate inferno of avalanches and falling climbers. If factually vague, the article was
minuscule dots inch their way down the mountain. Roeland stayed in hourly contact with Maarten van Eck in Holland. Maarten was already coordinating a helicopter evacuation from base camp for the following morning, in addition to keeping up a running dialogue with several embassies and the Alpine Club of Pakistan, and sharing what news he could with the families and loved ones of those still on K2. Each time they spoke, Maarten asked Roeland the same questions: “What do you know about Gerard?
the main body of climbers would depart camp around two a.m. Pemba trudged around camp, knocking on ice-wreathed tent flies, the halo from his headlamp searching for coils of rope, ice screws, and snow pickets among the packs scattered outside. “It’s good weather; let’s go,” Pemba called. A few voices answered in broken English, but everyone was still in their tents, still waking up. The minutes ticked past. Pemba shouted louder. One by one, the other members of the advance team assembled